Changing MacOS Desktop Background Colors With Keyboard Maestro


On my Apple MacOS, I prefer to use solid colors for my desktop backgrounds instead of pictures. There’s a few reasons for this.

First, and primarily, I record training videos for Pluralsight. Having a solid color for a background eliminates any visual distractions for the viewers.

Second, using a solid color provides a visual queue to which desktop space I’m working in. My previous post Moving Between Multiple MacOS Desktop Spaces With Keyboard Maestro, I documented how I like to have multiple spaces across my three external monitors. The first space for business apps, second for coding, and final space for video recording or other tasks.

I’ve noticed that when I first boot my MacBook, it doesn’t always restore the same colors I had when I shut down. One monitor might have a blue background, another might be dark gray. This happens often enough to be annoying, and something I want to easily correct.

There are also times when I’m working under different lighting conditions than normal, and a darker black background, or a very light gray may work better. Having the ability to change this easily was important to me.

If you read my last few posts, you saw how powerful Keyboard Maestro | @KeyboardMaestro is. So I turned to it and was happy to say I found a solution, although I admit it’s a bit of a workaround.

Before we get started, be aware Keyboard Maestro is a paid app. However it’s a one time purchase of only $36 (US). Well worth the investment for everything it does.

Additionally, this won’t be a step by step tutorial on how to use Keyboard Maestro. The Keyboard Maestro website, YouTube, and the internet have a plethora of those on the basic use of the Keyboard Maestro application. This post will focus on the solution I came up with.

OK, let’s go see how to add some color to our lives!

Setting The Background

Before you can proceed, you will first need a transparent PNG file. You can create your own, or grab one from the web. I found one at Wikimedia Commons. You can download the smallest size, then save it to your Documents folder (or some other common location, I went with Documents).

Next, start a new macro. I chose to bind this first one to Ctrl+Option+Shift+G, as I’ll be using it for a Gray background.

Next, add an action of Set Desktop Image. For the image file, select the transparent PNG file you created (or downloaded).

Set it to Fit to screen, then set the background to the color you want. In the image below, I chose a dark gray color.

Now you can repeat this, adding additional macros for each color you want to add. I have macros for dark gray, green, dark red, blue, and a light gray almost white in color. Normally I use dark gray for my "business" spaces, blue for my development spaces, and dark red or dark green for the third desktop space, depending on my mood. I can also change easily if lighting conditions would make a certain color easier to on my eyes.

As you can see, the workaround is to use a transparent image and set a background color. True, I could manually go set a background color each time directly through the MacOS Change Desktop Background interface, but that’s time consuming compared to a simple key combination.

Using with Pictures Too!

Here I chose a transparent image, but you could if you wished use this with normal pictures. When working from home, you may want a background of your family. At a company meeting, you may want to quickly change this to your company logo. If you are about to do some screen sharing, you may want just a solid background color, like I showed in this post.


This becomes a very handy tool for situations when, upon booting, MacOS doesn’t restore my colors correctly, or for changing them to meet my needs at the moment.

I hope you found this Keyboard Maestro macro to change your desktop background colors as useful as I do. If so, please share this post with your friends, family, and anyone else who uses an Apple Mac product.

Disclaimer, this was in no way a paid advertisement for Keyboard Maestro. I received no compensation for doing this post. In fact I purchased Keyboard Maestro with my own hard earned money. I just think its a great tool and wanted to share this technique to change multiple desktop spaces simultaneously with you.

I record video training courses for Pluralsight, including several on the Apple MacOS platform. You’ll find a list of my courses with links on my About Me page.

If you don’t have a Pluralsight subscription, just go to my list of courses on Pluralsight . At the top is a Try For Free button you can use to get a free 10 day subscription to Pluralsight, with which you can watch my courses, or any other course on the site.


Moving Between Multiple MacOS Desktop Spaces With Keyboard Maestro


Like many people, I use Apple’s multiple desktop spaces feature on MacOS. I use the first space for "business". My email reader, to do task list, social media, notes app, and the like goes here.

My second space is used for development. VSCode and related apps go into this spot. My third spot is either used for video recording, or other tasks as needed.

The MacOS spaces feature works in one of two ways. In the older method all desktop spaces were tied together. You used CTRL+Left Arrow or CTRL+Right Arrow to move between them, and the spaces on all monitors changed together. You got one menu bar across the top of the primary monitor.

You can actually change MacOS to revert back to this behavior, but I like having a menu bar on each display so don’t like to use it.

In the current, default mode each monitor has a space that is independent of the others. I can change the current space on one monitor, but the others remain as they were. Each monitor has its own menu bar across the top.

I have three monitors connected to my MacBook, and it can be annoying to have to change the space on each monitor individually, when the majority of the time I want to change them all together. Sadly there is no method built into MacOS to do this.

I finally found a way to accomplish this using Keyboard Maestro | @KeyboardMaestro. Be aware Keyboard Maestro is a paid app, but a one time purchase of only $36 (US). Well worth the investment for everything it does.

Just a preface first, this won’t be a step by step tutorial on how to use Keyboard Maestro. The Keyboard Maestro website, YouTube, and the internet contain a vast collection on the basic use of the Keyboard Maestro application. This post will focus on the solution I came up with.

OK, with that out of the way let’s see how to change desktop spaces simultaneously.

Changing Spaces On All Monitors

Changing the desktop space requires a few steps, as you’ll see in the image below.

In the first action I used Move or Click Mouse and changed it to Move Only, to relocate the mouse to an absolute position on my first monitor. I started with the leftmost monitor in my setup.

You can use the Get button found in the move mouse action to easily capture the coordinates. I just moved the mouse over to the middle of the monitor to grab the position.

Next, I have a Type a Keystroke action, and have it press CTRL+Right Arrow. I then have a Pause action, to make the macro wait one second before proceeding.

I found without the pause, my Mac was running so fast it didn’t have time to figure out where the cursor was before processing the CTRL+Right Arrow keystroke, so it wasn’t always changing the correct monitors desktop space. Adding the Pause fixed this.

For the second monitor I have another Mouse Move (but no click) that just moves the cursor 2000 pixels over from the last mouse position, which was on monitor 1. This is enough to move the mouse over to monitor 2.

I then have another keystroke action to press CTRL+Right Arrow, then another pause. I repeat these steps for the remaining monitors.

I suppose I could have positioned the mouse in an absolute position for all my monitors, but to me this will make the macro easier to reuse in other setups.

At the very end I added a final Mouse Move action to reposition the mouse over the center of my primary monitor. This way I’ll know where it is each time and won’t have to hunt it down.

I tied this macro to CTRL+F12. Now I can move the spaces for all my monitors one screen to the right with one key press.

Moving Left

To move everything back to the left, I duplicated the macro. Then I simply changed all of the keystroke actions to press CTRL+Left Arrow. Finally I bound the macro to CTRL+F11.

Disabling Changing On Some Spaces

If you are familiar with Keyboard Maestro, you may have noticed three actions toward the bottom that are disabled. Originally I had all three external monitors, plus the internal monitor on my MacBook, changing together.

As my MacBook tends to sit off to the side, I primarily use the internal monitor to hold the Apple Messages app in case my wife (aka she-who-must-be-obeyed) sends me a text. It lets me notice and respond quickly.

I also leave the Apple Home app on this monitor so I can turn the lights and fans in my house on and off easily. When I play music the Apple Music app sits here too. I opted to disable desktop space changing on this monitor, although I left the actions in the macro but disabled in case I should ever want to turn them back on.

It also serves as an example that you can opt to change some, but not all, desktop spaces at the same time.

Don’t Go Too Fast

Be aware you need to give Keyboard Maestro time to process the macro. You cannot rapidly press CTRL+F12 CTRL+F12 CTRL+F12… quickly and have the macro work right.

It’s best to press the activation keystroke (CTRL+F12 in my case), let go of the keyboard until all the spaces have changed, then press it again.

Even with that slight limitation, it is still far faster than having to move your mouse to each monitor and use the built in CTRL+Left/Right arrow keystrokes.

Also be aware I chose CTRL+F12 and CTRL+F11 for my activation keystrokes. You are free to pick any key combination that is not currently in use on your Mac.


I hope you’ll find this Keyboard Maestro macro as useful as I do. If so, please share this post with your friends, family, and anyone else who uses an Apple Mac product.

Disclaimer, this was in no way a paid advertisement for Keyboard Maestro. I received no compensation for doing this post. In fact I purchased Keyboard Maestro with my own hard earned money. I just think its a great tool and wanted to share this technique to change multiple desktop spaces simultaneously with you.

I record video training courses for Pluralsight, including several on the Apple MacOS platform. You’ll find a list of my courses with links on my About Me page.

If you don’t have a Pluralsight subscription, just go to my list of courses on Pluralsight . At the top is a Try For Free button you can use to get a free 10 day subscription to Pluralsight, with which you can watch my courses, or any other course on the site.

Opening Multiple Apps on MacOS With Keyboard Maestro


When I sit down at my Apple MacBook to begin my workday, there are a variety of apps I open and use daily. I also use multiple monitors, so I can spread my work out. When done manually, this required me to open each app, move it to the monitor I wanted, then repeat. Very time consuming.

I wanted a way to automate this, and found Keyboard Maestro | @KeyboardMaestro to be the best solution. It was easy to setup, and I could trigger things off a simple keyboard combination.

Be aware Keyboard Maestro is a paid app, but a one time purchase of only $36 (US). Well worth the investment for everything it does.

Just a preface, this won’t be a step by step tutorial on how to use Keyboard Maestro. The Keyboard Maestro website, YouTube, and the internet have a plethora of those on the basic use of the Keyboard Maestro application. This post will focus on the solution I came up with.

OK, that said let’s see how to open multiple apps.

Opening and Positioning an App

Opening an app in Keyboard Maestro requires three basic steps. First, use the Activate Application action. This will open the app if it’s not already open, or bring it to the foreground if it’s open already. If you’ve already got the app open when you create the action, you can easily pick it in the Activate action’s app picker list inside the Keyboard Maestro editor.

Next, you need a Pause action. This is needed to give the app time to fully open before you attempt to move it in the next step. For most apps around 3 seconds was sufficient. Some apps loaded quickly, and I could reduce the pause time to one or two seconds. A few I had to bump up to four or five seconds. You’ll just have to play with this, as it is quite dependant on the app, the speed of your Mac, and even the internet for apps that require access to the web.

Finally I added a Move Window action, then changed it to Move and Resize Front Window. You can manually enter the top corner coordinates, followed by the width and height.

Far easier though is to have the app positioned where you want it, then use the Get button, found in the Move and Resize Front Window action. This turns the mouse into cross hairs, and you have five seconds to draw a box around the app. This will get the coordinates and paste them into the action. From there you can make any minor tweaks.

Now, repeat! Repeat these three steps for each application you want to open. Here is a screen shot of my list.

There’s one more action, just off the bottom of the screen, a Move Mouse action.

After opening up my apps I wanted to position the mouse in a spot where I knew it would be.

IMPORTANT!!! Keep Your Hands Off The Keyboard and Mouse!!!

One important thing, make sure not to touch the keyboard or mouse while these macros are running. Otherwise you might interrupt the workflow and apps won’t open correctly or may not be where you want them positioned.

Of course if that happens its not a big deal, you can just run the macro a second time to get everything positioned right, but best not to waste the time if you can avoid it.


This app saves me a lot of time every day. I carry my MacBook onto a sunroom / porch I have on the back of my house, plug it in to my monitors (don’t worry the sunroom is secure), and run the Keyboard Maestro macro. Sure, it takes about a minute to run and open everything, but that is far faster than doing it manually. In addition I can do other tasks while it is running, such as plugging in my iPads and setting them on my desk, or sitting my Windows / Linux laptop in its docking station.

Because this is tied to a keyboard combination, I can have multiple versions. For the sunroom I enjoy working on I use Ctrl+Shift+Option+Cmd+P to start my work day. In addition to the sunroom, I also have an actual home office where Ctrl+Shift+Option+Cmd+O opens and positions everything. In addition, my in-laws kindly gave me a corner in a spare room to setup a small desk with some monitors so I can work when we visit there, using Ctrl+Shift+Option+Cmd+D. (D is the first letter of the town they live in, in case you were wondering.)

Finally I have yet a fourth version to open my apps when I am using only the internal monitor of my MacBook, with no external monitors attached. For it I use Ctrl+Shift+Option+Cmd+L (L for Laptop Only).

During the course of the day I’ll wind up moving applications around on the screen, dragging between monitors, and the like. At some point I like to refresh everything to put my apps back where I had them at the start of the day. I can of course run the full Ctrl+Shift+Option+Cmd+P (for example) and it works just fine.

However, if I know all the apps are already open, there is no sense in giving each one time to open. So I created a duplicate of the original macro, and simply removed all of the pause actions. I then use Ctrl+Option+Cmd+P to activate it. I did the same for the other macros, creating a version without the pause, and the only difference being the faster (much faster!) version doesn’t include Shift as part of the activation.

Thanks to MacGeekGab

I need to give a shout out to my favorite Apple podcast Mac Geek Gab | @MacGeekGab. In a past episode one of the hosts (I believe it was Dave) mentioned using Keyboard Maestro to do this very thing, although didn’t go into any details.

That gave me the inspiration to tackle this challenge. Through some trial and error, along with persistance, I was able to come up with a solution that worked for me.


If you are an Apple Mac user and don’t have Keyboard Maestro, it is a worth while investment. As a matter of fact, I have some upcoming posts in which I’ll document a few other things I use it for!

The same goes for Mac Geek Gab, if you aren’t listening to their podcast, you should!

Disclaimer, this was in no way a paid advertisement from either Keyboard Maestro or Mac Geek Gab. I received no compensation for doing this post. In fact I purchased Keyboard Maestro with my own hard earned money, and even donate to Mac Geek Gab. I just think they are both great tools and wanted to share them with you.

I record video training courses for Pluralsight, including several on the Apple MacOS platform. You’ll find a list of my courses with links on my About Me page.

If you don’t have a Pluralsight subscription, just go to my list of courses on Pluralsight . At the top is a Try For Free button you can use to get a free 10 day subscription to Pluralsight, with which you can watch my courses, or any other course on the site.

Getting Healthy With Tech


Over the last few months, I’ve been working hard to get healthier. I’m diabetic, with high blood pressure, and overweight (like a lot of people in IT). So, I’ve been working hard to change that.

I’m also a tech nerd and a data guy. I’ve been using tech to track my progress, examine many critical metrics, and trend these over time.

I thought others may benefit from what I’ve done in this area over the last few months, and thought I’d share the tech and apps I’ve been using here.

Apple Watch

I use multiple platforms for my daily work, including Windows and Linux, but in my opinion it’s Apple who has health tech really nailed down. My Apple Watch is my first tool for tracking my health.

With it, I can track my exercises. Every day, no excuses, I do a minimum of thirty minutes of exercise although as I’ve progressed it’s turned into forty or more. I have an indoor exercise bike for rainy days, or on a nice day head to the great outdoors for a swift walk.

When I walk, I use walking / hiking poles to give my arms a bit of a workout. On days where I do my indoor bike, I do some weightlifting with some handheld barbells to work my arms.

My watch tracks the length of my workout, how many calories I burned, what the weather was like, and if I walk what path did I take, and what elevation change was included in my route.

In addition, it also tracks my blood oxygen level, heart rate, and has an ECG function. It also tracks my sleep to see how much rest I’m getting at night. The watch also has a cool little mindfulness app, which helps me calm down and focus.

Finally, it provides reminders to stand up every hour. Like a lot of IT people, when I get seated in front of my PC I get really focused and lose track of time. Suddenly 3 hours can go by. Then when I stand up my bad back has gone stiff, and my arthritic hips let me know they aren’t happy.

The reminder to stand every hour has really made a difference. Getting up and moving around hourly really helps eliminate those stiff and sore times.

Apple iPhone / iPad

The information in my watch feeds back to the Fitness and Health apps on my iPhone. Here I can review my information from the watch, combined with data from my other apps and tools, more of which I’ll cover momentarily.

As you can see, the fitness app gives me a nice dashboard of my progress. Today I did a 2.03-mile walk. My total exercise time for today was 50 minutes. Note that if I had done multiple exercise activities, for example 30 minutes on my bike and 10 minutes of weights, it would combine that time.

It also shows my total calories burned, along with my target for today. So far, I’ve done 440 of 600 calories for my day today. The fitness app helps you calculate your target, but you can override it. In addition, it will prompt you to increase it over time based on your past workouts.

For example, when I first started my goal was 520 calories. It then increased to 560, and now to 600. I’m sure in the near future I’ll be prompted to increase it further, although as I mentioned I can change this whenever I feel I’m ready.

Finally, it also shows how many times I’ve stood today, with a goal of standing up at least once during an hour, for 12 hours in the day.

The circles show your progress in a quick graphical format. Once the circle is closed you’ve completed your goal for the day, although it will continue the circle beyond the target. This makes it easy to challenge yourself to meet your goal.

Some refer to this as the “gameification” of exercise. Turning exercise into a game, much like trying to get a high score in a video game. While intellectually I understand what is going on, it’s still a fun challenge to meet these goals and very satisfying to see those circles close.

Beyond the software built into my Apple devices, there are some other devices and applications I use.

Basic App Requirements

Before I list the apps and devices, I wanted to list a few of my basic requirements in selecting health apps. You may not have these same requirements, so you may find other apps that work better for you.

First, the app must work on both iPad and iPhone, with bonus points if there is an associated app for the Apple Watch. I like to do my monitoring of data on the iPad (which has a nice big screen my old eyes can see) but be able to register things like taking my meds on my iPhone, which is generally handy.

Next, the app needed to sync between the iPad / iPhone. I found many good apps, but very few that had the ability to synchronize their information between devices.

Finally, it needs to be easy to use. My wife is also tracking her health, but while smart she’s not a technical person so it has to be good for an average user, and not just tech nerds like me.

Omron Blood Pressure Monitor

To keep track of my blood pressure I use a monitor from a company called Omron. They have multiple devices, mine has Bluetooth and allows for two users, which is nice as you can share with your spouse / significant other / pesky relative that won’t leave.

My model is the BP7350, but there are a range of models that support this functionality. In the Apple Appstore they have a corresponding Omron Connect app. It’s pretty simple, you take your BP on the machine, then open the app and it syncs that reading to the iPhone.

As you can see it displays my readings for today. I can tap the History button on the bottom to see my readings over time. Should my meter and phone not automatically synchronize, I can tap the Sync button in the upper right corner to have the two sync.

If you tap the + button, it brings up an additional menu. Tap on Profile, then App Settings and it will let you copy your readings into the Apple Health App.

Blood Glucose

Being diabetic it’s important to monitor my blood glucose (aka blood sugar) every day. For that, I use the OneTouch Verio Flex meter. While this meter is not in my insurance company’s “approved” list, it was only $26 (US). The test strips run about $22 (US) for thirty, about a month’s supply.

Both of these I happily pay out of pocket for the convenience of easily tracking my readings. There is a corresponding OneTouch app for the iPhone, it pairs with the meter over Bluetooth. I just take my reading and it automatically syncs to my phone.

As you can see it forms a two-way link to the Apple Health and Fitness apps. It copies my daily reading into Apple Health and reads in my workouts from Fitness. It also looks for and warns about negative trends.

And yes, before someone points it out, I know my sugars are way too high. Late last year we found out my previous meds had quit working. The doctor’s office says it happens sometimes. So, my doctor and I are working with different medications to see what is most effective for me. It’s still a work in progress.

I mentioned it is a two-way link, the app also writes my glucose numbers into my Apple Health app.

Weight Tracking

As you might expect as part of getting healthier, I wanted to lose weight. Thus, I needed an effective way to track it. Ideally, I wanted to be able to just step on a scale, and it be recorded in an app.

I already used some Wyze cameras, since I had the app already it was an easy choice to select the Wyze scale.

In addition to weight, it also has other measurements such as BMI. One tip, don’t step off the scale too soon. Let it read your weight in, then wait a second. It will then calculate its other measurements. At that point you can step off, and the readings will show up in the Wyze app.

On the screen that displays your weight, you can go into the settings (gear icon in the upper right) and turn on data sharing with third party apps, like Apple Health. At $33 (US) this was a no brainer purchase.


Staying hydrated is important for good health. Especially for diabetics, as it helps keep the sugars flushed from your system.

Note, don’t take anything here as medical advice, I’m not a doctor, I’m just sharing what mine told me. Your situation may vary, so be sure to consult your own physician.

To track my hydration, and to get reminders that it is time to drink, I selected an app called WaterMinder. It has iPhone and iPad apps as well as an app for the Apple Watch. You enter basic data like your age, height, weight, and it calculates how much water you should take in.

To be honest this is the one failing I found with the app, the number it creates is about half of what every other site I found said I should be getting. For me it said 80 ounces a day, so I just doubled that, and overrode the goal to 160 ounces a day. Again, be sure to do your own research and discuss the proper fluid intake goals with your own doctor.

As you can see, the app provides a cute little graphic showing your intake for the day. So far, I’ve taken in 100.8 oz, or 63% of my goal. To add data, you can tap the + button and quick pick a water cup amount. Alternatively, you can tap the icon to the right of it, and it brings up a menu with various kinds of liquids and lets you type in how many ounces.

That’s one of the things I really like about this app. If you, for example, drink milk, it calculates how much water is in the milk then adds just that amount of water to your hydration total.

The app will sync between devices, but it’s not always automatic. You can force it though, although I didn’t see it documented. Just tap the + button, then tap outside it, and it will force a sync.

You can also share your readings with another user of the WaterMinder. I share mine with my wife, and she shares hers with me. We can see how much water the other one has ingested and encourage each other.

The app also has a nice history feature. It will show your trend over time, but for a given day it will also show you each individual entry. That way you can track exactly what you’d consumed that day.


Many people, as they get older, take one or more medications. Even younger, healthier folks tend to take one or more vitamins. As such, it’s important to have a way to track not just what medications you take but to remind you when it is time to take them.

I spent a lot of time trying a multitude of apps to find one that met my requirements. I finally found one called EveryDose.

EveryDose is simple to use. You enter in all your medications. Built in there is a list of valid medications, so as you begin to type you can then pick your medication from the list. Should your medication not be in the list, no problem you can elect to add it anyway.

You also enter the strength of the pill, for example 50 mg, then the dose, 1 pill, 2, 1.5 pills, etc. Like the medications, you can enter a custom value as well.

As part of the data entry, you can select a time of day to take the medication, as well as a frequency (as needed, once a day, once a week, etc.).

Note I’ve blurred out my prescription meds, but you can also enter your vitamins into the app to track them. When the reminder alert goes off, you can tell the app you took the meds on time, just now, or enter a specific date/time.

If you need to, you can go down the list and pick the meds you took individually. This is handy should you run out of a particular pill that day.

You can export your list of meds so you can easily share with your doctor or pharmacist, plus great logging so you can see which meds you have taken on what days.

The one thing it lacked was integration into Apple Health. I’d love to see it enter my vitamins and such into those areas in Apple Health. But its other features were enough to make me go with it.

Exporting Health Data

You can take your health data to the next level by exporting it. Once exported, you can add it to your own database, or most importantly share it with your health care provider.

To do that well, I found an excellent app called Health Auto Export. This is a multicomponent application. There is one app that runs on the iPhone itself. This app provides some simple reporting, but its main purpose is to run in the background and update your personal database. This data can then be used by the Health Auto Export iPad app, as well as their app that runs on MacOS.

The primary purpose is to export your health data to a variety of formats such as CSV. You can bring this into Excel or Numbers, then slice and dice to provide your doctor with just the information they need.

It also has a nice dashboard which you can customize. Here’s an example of mine:

This gives me an easy-to-use dashboard I can view on my Mac or my iPads. I can drill down, using the menu on the left, to get more details, along with trends displayed over various charts and graphs.

As I mentioned, the most important functionality for me is the ability to export data. This has allowed me to share with my doctor, which helps him adjust my medication and track my health.


As I work to improve my health, I’ve explored a variety of apps and tools to track my progress. I wanted to share what I’ve found so far in case you, too, are seeing to improve your health.

I said this earlier in the post but want to reiterate: I am not a medical professional, and I am not offering medical advice. Please consult your physician before embarking on any healthcare, such as exercise, hydration, medication, and the like.

For me this is a journey, a work in progress. It’s possible, even likely, that as time goes by, I will find other apps and devices to improve my health.

If you have suggestions, perhaps you’ve found a better app or device, then by all means share them in the comments so we can all get healthier. My slogan has become:

Exercise, hydrate, medicate, every day! No excuses. Be a monster!


Solved: CMD Key Combos Not Working with Logitech K850 and MacOS Monterrey

Earlier this year I did a blog post, Working From Home – Permanently, in which I recommend using a good keyboard especially when you have multiple computers.

Since upgrading to MacOS Monterrey I’ve had an issue where some of the basic command key combos, such as CMD+X, CMD+V, CMD+C, and more were not working from my Logitech K850 keyboard. However, when I press those keys directly on my MacBook Pro they worked fine.

For those unfamiliar with it, the Logitech K850 will let you bluetooth connect to three different computers. It has three buttons labeled 1, 2, and 3 that will switch the input to a different computer.

This seemed to occur when I first powered up my MacBook. I’d go to do something and find my often used command key combos (CMD+C, etc) would not work.

The fix turned out to be fairly simple, what I needed to do is switch the input to another computer (using the 1, 2, 3 buttons). Once the keyboard was connected to another machine, I could return to my MacBook and find that the CMD keys worked like they were supposed to.

I’m guessing the K850 must power up in some default state in which it doesn’t realize it is in “Mac” mode. It isn’t until you switch from some other computer to the MacBook that it realizes “oh, hey, I’m connected to a MacBook so I’ll switch to Mac mode” and make the CMD key combos work right.

But that’s just a guess on my part, the important thing is if you are having the same issue, just switch the keyboard input to a different computer then back to the MacBook via the 1, 2, 3 buttons and the CMD key combinations should start working.

Note, in my testing I had to switch to an input that was active (i.e. to a computer that was powered up). When I switched to an unused input (not currently connected to a powered computer) and back it didn’t always work right.

VeraCrypt on the Command Line for macOS


Automation is the key to success, especially in the DevOps world. In addition, security is an ever increasing need in today’s world of hacks and ransomware.

In my last two posts I showed how to use the encryption utility, VeraCrypt, to create encrypted containers and drives to securely store data. In this, and the next two posts, we’ll see how we can automate VeraCrypt from the command line.

We’ll cover the basics. Creating a container, mounting a container (aka volume), getting a list of mounted volumes, and finally dismounting your volumes.

As it turns out, the command line syntax is a bit different for all the major operating systems. In this post we’ll focus on macOS, in the next two posts we’ll cover Windows and Linux.


Naturally, you’ll have to have VeraCrypt installed. You can find out more in my first post of the series, VeraCrypt – A Powerful Encryption Utility.

The next requirement applies to macOS. In order for macOS to be able to read the variety of filesystems VeraCrypt supports, you need to install a free utility, macFUSE.

It’s free, fast to install and takes very little in the way of system resources. It’s compatible with macOS BigSur and Catalina, and probably older versions too, check their site if you have that need.

Code Samples

While I will be providing samples here, you should also check out the project I have on GitHub that goes with this post, VeraCrypt-CommandLine-Examples.

I’ll update it over time as needed, and it may be easier for you to download, or cut and paste from it.

OK, let’s get started!

Creating a Container

First off, let’s look at the long line of code needed to create a container. Please note that while your blog reader may wrap the command below, it should be one line in your shell script.

/Applications/ --text --create "/Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/" --size "200M" --password MySuperSecurePassword1! --volume-type normal --encryption AES --hash sha-512 --filesystem exfat --pim 0 --keyfiles "" --random-source /Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/randomdata.txt

OK, that’s a bit hard to read, so let me break it out into each part below.

The first item is the path to the VeraCrypt application, assuming you installed it in the default location.


The --text parameter says we want to use VeraCrypt in text mode, not GUI. Note, the –text parameter must be the FIRST parameter you pass in, or it will not work.


We next tell VeraCrypt we want to create a new file container, and where it is to be stored at. For this demo, I’ve created a temp folder in my Documents directory.

You’ll want to change this to the location where you store your volumes. In addition, you’ll also want to change the user folder from arcanecode to your username.

--create "/Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/"

Next we indicate how big we want our container to be. If you just list a number, VeraCrypt assumes you mean bytes, but you can also affix M for megabytes, G gigabytes, K kilobytes, and so on.

Here I’m going to keep it small for demo purposes and use 200 megabytes.

--size "200M"

Now we provide our password. Normally you would not want to hard code it, but rather pass it into your script as a parameter.

I wanted to keep this demo simple though, and focus on VeraCrypt so I’ve just hard coded it I’m using the same “super secure” password I’ve used in my last few posts.

--password MySuperSecurePassword1!

Next is the volume type, normal or hidden. My previous blog post talks about hidden types, and if you are going to do a hidden volume I would suggest using the GUI in order to assure it is done right.

For this demo we’ll go with a normal volume

--volume-type normal

Now we pick the encryption type. There are quite a few, so refer to the VeraCrypt documentation for a full list. Here we’re using AES.

--encryption AES

Next up, for the encryption method we picked it needs to know the hashing algorithm. For AES I suggest SHA-512.

--hash sha-512

In order to keep this container portable across other OS’s (Windows and Linux) we’ll format using exfat. Be aware though that to use exfat on a Mac, you’ll have to install macFUSE (see the prerequisites section above.)

--filesystem exfat

The PIM is a special number that allows you to specify the number of times hashing algorithm executes. It’s a bit more complex than that, if you want full details see the VeraCrypt documentation.

For now, we can pass it the value of 0 (zero), which tells it to use the default value for the PIM.

--pim 0

You can mount a volume in VeraCrypt using a keyfile, as opposed to a password. We’ve not done that here, so we’ll just pass in an empty string to indicate we won’t use a keyfile.

--keyfiles ""

As a final parameter, you need to provide random data for VeraCrypt to use when generating its hashes. It needs at least 320 characters, but you can give more.

I’ve provided a sample one as part of this demo (see the GitHub code samples), I just randomly smacked keys on my keyboard with my eyes closed. I’d suggest creating one of your own for production, but for just testing and learning (I’m assuming you’ll throw away the vault when you are done) then the one here will be OK.

--random-source /Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/randomdata.txt

OK, that’s everything you need to create a volume. Now that it’s created, let’s mount it.

Mounting a VeraCrypt Volume

Here is the full command line to mount. (As before, it should be on a single line, ignore any wrapping done by your browser).

/Applications/ --text --mount "/Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/" /Volumes/vctest --password MySuperSecurePassword1! --pim 0 --keyfiles "" --protect-hidden no --slot 1 --verbose

Let’s start breaking it down. First, as before, is the full path to the VeraCrypt app.


As with all of these commands, the --text parameter must come first to let VeraCrypt know we want to use text mode and not the GUI


The mount parameter actually has two values that need to be passed in.

First we pass in the name of the file to mount.

Second we need to provide a mount point. This will let macOS treat it like any other drive you might plug in.

In macOS, use /Volumes then add on a name. For simplicity I usually use the name of the file (without any extension), but it doesn’t have to be.

In reality though, it doesn’t make a real difference as macOS overrides the name you provide, and instead uses “Untitled”, “Untitled 2”, and so on.

--mount "/Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/" /Volumes/vctest

Next is our “super secure” password. If your password has spaces, you’ll need to wrap this in double quote marks.

--password MySuperSecurePassword1!

If you overrode the default PIM when creating your volume, you’ll need to provide it. Otherwise, we can pass it the value of 0 (zero), which tells it to use the default value

--pim 0

If you created your volume using a keyfile or files, provide them here. Otherwise, you can just pass in an empty string to indicate no keyfile is needed.

--keyfiles ""

If this volume contained a hidden volume, you would need to let VeraCrypt know by using a value of yes, plus some other parameters.

In this case there is no hidden partition in our volume, so we can just give a value of no.

--protect-hidden no

Slot is an optional parameter. If you look at the VeraCrypt GUI in macOS, down the left side are a series of slot numbers. If you omit this parameter, VeraCrypt will mount in the first empty slot.

However you can specify a slot, which can be useful if you want to make sure certain volumes always mount in a specific slot. You can then use the slot number when you want to dismount your volumes.

--slot 1

Verbose is also an optional parameter, but I often include it just to see what is going on under the covers. You can use it with any of the commands in this post, I just included it on this one for example purposes.

If you intend to make this into a script then I would suggest omitting it once your script is debugged and working.


OK, hopefully all is going well, and you’ve created and mounted your volume. Let’s next see how to get a list, from the command line, of all your mounted volumes.

Listing Mounted Volumes

Here’s the command line to see what is mounted on your Mac.

/Applications/ --text --list

As with other commands you have seen, we start with the full path to the VeraCrypt application. We then use --text to let VeraCrypt know not to use the GUI.

We finish with --list, which tells VeraCrypt to display a list of all mounted containers. This will include the slot number, volume name, and mount directory.

Mom always taught me to put away my toys when I was done playing with them, so in the next section we’ll see how to unmount your volumes once you are done with them.

Dismounting VeraCrypt Volumes

There are four ways to dismount a volume. Three of them will dismount a specific volume, the final will dismount all volumes.

All ways follow the same pattern. Give the path to the VeraCrypt app, followed by the --text parameter to tell VeraCrypt not to launch the GUI.

Finally we give the --dismount to let VeraCrypt know we want to unload our volume. The value passed into the –dismount parameter varies, and will be explained below.

Method 1: Slot Number

/Applications/ --text --dismount --slot 1

With the first method, you provide the slot number. If you mounted a volume and used the slot number parameter, for example your personal file vault is always in slot 5, then this can be an easy way to dismount.

On the other hand, if you let VeraCrypt load in the first available slot, you’ll either have to look at the GUI, or run the list command in the previous section, to learn the slot number.

Method 2: Volume Name

/Applications/ --text --dismount "/Volumes/Untitled"

Using the volume list command or looking at the “Mount Directory” column in the GUI, you can pass in that value to unmount. Because this is typically “Untitled”, “Untitled 1” and so on, it can be of an issue trying to be reliable in unmounting the right volume.

Method 3: Volume File Name

/Applications/ --text --dismount "/Users/arcanecode/Documents/temp/"

This method is the most reliable. Since you know the name of the file you mounted, you can just provide the same file name to unmount.

VeraCrypt doesn’t care what slot it is loaded into, it uses the file name to find it.

The winner – Method 3!

For the reasons above, I highly suggest Method 3 be your go to method for dismounting volumes in your scripts. It is the most reliable, and easiest to understand when looking at the scripts.

But wait, there’s more!

Dismounting ALL Volumes

There is one final method, you can dismount all of the VeraCrypt volumes you have mounted.

/Applications/ --text --dismount

If you use just the --dismount parameter, and pass in no values, then VeraCrypt will attempt to dismount ALL volumes you have loaded.

This can be a useful command to run when you’re shutting down your Mac, to ensure all volumes are properly shutdown.

If you don’t have any volumes mounted, then VeraCrypt basically shrugs it’s shoulders, does nothing, and ends.


In this post, we learned how to create, mount, and dismount VeraCrypt volumes from the command line in macOS. In addition, we also saw how to get a listing of volumes currently mounted.

In the next two posts we’ll see how to do the same things, but in Windows, then Linux.

Having Multiple Entries for the Same PC in Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple macOS


In a previous blog post, Using the Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple macOS, I showed how easy it was to remote control a Windows computer from your Mac.

One question I get asked is “Can I have multiple entries for the same computer?” The answer is yes!

This, of course, leads to another question, “Why would you want to?”

Reasons for Multiple Entries

There are a number of valid reasons for wanting multiple entries in Remote Desktop to the same computer. Let’s cover a couple by using examples.

First, let’s say you have a Windows 10 computer in the family room where your child plays games and does school work. Wisely you have setup their account as a “standard user”.

You have an account as well, as an administrator, to handle administrative tasks such as installing software, making sure updates are being processed and the like.

You could setup entries in Microsoft Remote Desktop, one for each user that logs into the computer. This allows you to have one entry to login as yourself, and a second to login using your offspring’s ID.

Now when your child comes to ask you to install the latest updates to Minecraft on the family computer, you can simply remote to it from your Mac using their ID, and install the updates providing your admin user ID and password. You’ll also have the entry to login as yourself, so you can apply updates and do maintenance.

For the second reason, you may wish to access your remote PC with different sets of option. In the blog post I mentioned earlier, I set it up to use all the monitors on my Mac.

Every so often though, I want to have my remote Windows computer running in a window. This allows me to see something on my remote machine, while still having my macOS desktop available.

One example, in my previous post I showed how to configure Windows to allow for remote access. I did so by having the Windows machine in a window on my Mac on one monitor, while creating the post in Safari on my macBook on a second monitor. This let me have them side by side, making it easy to create the instructions.

Rather than having to change the settings each time, I have two entries for my main Windows computer. The first, which you saw created in the first blog post in this series, opens the Windows machine using all monitors. The second opens it up in just a window.

Those are just two reasons, I’m sure you’ll be able to come up with many more.

Adding a Second Entry for the Windows PC

First, I’m going to assume you’ve already read my first article, Using the Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple macOS. If you haven’t, please take a moment now to do so.

With Microsoft Remote Desktop open on your Mac, click the + button at the top, then pick Add PC in the drop down.

Note that for security reasons, in the screen shots I’ve replaced with the actual name of my computer with <name>.

Start with the name of the computer in the PC name, and pick the user account to login in as, or leave it as “Ask when required“.

Now we want to use the Friendly name to indicate not just the computer name, but also how this is used. For this example I’m going to have my remote machine display in a window, so I’ve entered <name> in a Window.

Next we’ll need to configure it to show up in a window, so click on the Display tab.

Here I will uncheck the default of Start session in a full screen, then check on Fit session to window.

Then, at the bottom I checked on Update the session resolution on resize. This way when I resize the window on my Mac, it will resize the computer I’m remoting into so the desktop will fit the window.

You can change the Devices & Audio and Folders if you wish. Since I’ve already covered those in the first article I’ll just click on the Add button.

Update the Existing Connection

Before we open the new connection, we should update the friendly name of the existing one to make it clear what the difference is. To do so, click on the pencil icon in the upper right of the connection created in the first article.

Go to the Friendly name field, and enter the name of the computer followed by (for this situation) All Monitors, then click Save.

Below you can see it now reads <name> All Monitors, and beside it the new entry we just added for <name> in a Window.

It’s now very easy to tell the difference in the two connections.

Launching the New Connection

Let’s now launch the new connection by double clicking on it.

Here you can see a new window appears on my Mac, showing my Windows desktop. (Note that you can see a bigger version of any of the images in my blog posts by double clicking on it).

You can see the window with the full Windows 10 desktop, including the Windows task bar. You can also see the macOS toolbar across the bottom, as well as the Mac menu bar at the top.

You can also resize the window. If you checked the Update the session resolution on resize option, the resizing the window will also resize the Windows desktop as you see below.

You can see my Windows 10 desktop now fits nicely into my resized window.

Please note you can only have one connection to a computer active at a time. If I am in the windowed version of my connection, then go back to the Microsoft Remote Desktop connection window and double click on the <name> All Monitors, it will disconnect the <name> in a Window session then launch the all monitors version.

Any time you launch a connection, it will disconnect any existing connection, if there is one, in favor of the newly launched one.


In this article we showed how to create multiple connections to the same computer in the Microsoft Remote Desktop application on macOS. This works with Big Sur as well as previous versions of macOS.

We also covered various reasons why you might wish to create multiple connections within Remote Desktop.

Armed with this information you can now create multiple connections to the same computer to fit the ways in which you want to use the remote computer.

Supressing “The certificate Couldn’t Be Verified” message Using the Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple macOS


In my previous blog post, Using the Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple MacOS, I showed how easy it is to connect to one of your Windows computers from your Mac.

I frequently use the Microsoft Remote Desktop application on my Apple MacBook Pro to connect to one of my Windows computers. It presents a nice interface that’s easy to use and setup.

Once you’ve added your computer to the Microsoft Remote Desktop application (you’ll find the instructions in my previous post), all you have to do is double click on it to access your remote computer.

Here is the launching point, note that for security reasons in all of the images in this article I’ve blurred out the name of my computer and replaced it with <name>.

There is one irritating behavior. When connecting to a computer it frequently displays the following message: “You are connecting to the RDP host <name>. The certificate couldn’t be verified back to a root certificate. Your connection may not be secure. Do you want to continue?

Having to stop every time and click Continue is really annoying. Especially if you are on your home network, connecting to a computer you own and trust. There’s an easy fix though!

Suppressing the Warning Message

Simply click the Show Certificate button to display the certificate information.

Once you review, simply put a check mark in the “Always trust...” checkbox (pointed to by the arrow) then click Continue.

Since you are changing the trust certificates for your MacBook (or other Apple Mac computer, like the Mac Mini), macOS will prompt you to enter your admin password. Do so, then continue.

From here on out, all you need to do to connect to your remote computer is double click on it, and (if you’ve not saved it within the remote desktop program) enter your credentials. No more having to click to continue past the “certificate couldn’t be verified” message.


I’ll wrap this up with two quick notes. First, this works on the last several versions of macOS including Big Sur.

Second, while I’ve used Windows as the example, this will work with any OS (such as various Linux distros) that support RDP (Remote Desktop Protocol). Sadly, macOS does not support RDP so you cannot connect to another Mac from the Microsoft Remote Desktop application.

Using the Microsoft Remote Desktop Application on Apple macOS


I use many computers in my daily life, including Windows, Apple Mac’s, and Linux computers running a variety of distros. It’s very convenient for me to be able to remote into another computer from whichever computer I happen to be on.

On my MacBook (although this would work on any Apple machine running macOS, such as a Mac Mini), the Microsoft Remote Desktop application is a fantastic program for remoting to another computer.

While primarily designed for accessing a Windows machine, it will work with most computers that support the RDP (Remote Desktop Protocol) such as many Linux distros.

Note that it will not let you connect to another Apple Mac, as macOS does not support the Remote Desktop Protocol. You can go from a Mac to Windows (or some Linux) computers using the Remote Desktop application, but not to another Mac.

Microsoft Remote Desktop is free, and in the Apple App Store. Just do a search for Microsoft Remote Desktop, get and install it. But don’t open it quite yet, as we have to configure the computer you are going to connect to.

Configure Your Windows Computer

I’m going to assume you are connecting to a Windows 10 Pro computer. Click on the Start button, the pick Settings. In the Windows Settings, pick System.

On the System page, scroll down in the menu on the left and click on Remote Desktop. (You can click on the image below, or any of the ones in this article, to see them in their full resolution).

You’ll first need to toggle on the Enable Remote Desktop setting, as I’ve done here.

Next, look under “How to connect to this PC”. This has the name you need to enter into the Microsoft Remote Desktop app. In this image it shows <name>, but for you it will show the name of the computer. Note that for security reasons, I’ve replaced the actual name of my computers with simply <name> in the screen captures.

Finally, at the bottom look at the User accounts section. By default, if you are an administer on the computer, you are automatically able to remote to the computer.

If you want a standard user, in other words a non-admin user, to be able to remote in you’ll need to add them using the “Select users that can remotely access this PC” link.

At this point you’ve now setup your Windows computer to be remoted into. Note you only have to do this once on this computer, after that it can be remoted to from other computers.

Adding a PC to Microsoft Remote Desktop on your Mac

Now return to your Mac. Assuming you’ve installed the Microsoft Remote Desktop application, open it.

The first time in, you’ll see the big “Add PC” button right in the middle. After you’ve added the first machine, using the instructions here, you can add more computers using the plus button (pointed at by the big red arrow) and pick “Add PC” in the menu.

You’ll then be shown the Add PC window. Start by entering the name of the computer you want to connect to.

After entering the computers name, you’ll see the User account line, which by default is set to Ask when required. In this mode you will be prompted for your login credentials every time.

As an alternative, you can save your credentials by picking Add User Account… in the User account drop down. You’ll then be prompted for your Username and Password. You can also create a “friendly name” for the account.

For example, if you were setting up a connection to your wife’s computer, you’d have to give her full user name, perhaps it’s her e-mail address. In the friendly name could just enter “She who must be obeyed’s computer”.

One nice thing Microsoft Remote Desktop does is save your credentials. Then when you add more computers that use these same credentials you can just pick it from the User account drop down and not have to recreate them every time. This is especially nice for when you use your same Microsoft credential to login to multiple Windows computer.

Once you add the user account, or leave it at the default to ask each time, you’re ready to look at some of the options in Remote Desktop. It’s worth your time to understand these, as it will affect your experience when working with remote computers.

Friendly name can be helpful if the computer has a cryptic name. Often when a PC is purchased the default name is something like WINRPXM457JB. Most home users don’t realize they can rename their computer and leave it at the default. Using the friendly name you can enter “She who must be obeyed’s computer” and know what machine it is.

I find this even more helpful in work environments where they use naming conventions like “HR-PC-001”, “HR-PC-002”, etc. You could instead use meaningful names like “Anna’s computer”, “Jack’s computer”, or “The nice lady who brings us donuts computer”.

If you have a lot of computers you connect to, you may want to group them. By default, there’s one group “Saved PCs”. You may want to create groups such as “My computers”, “Wife’s computers”, “Kid’s computers” and so on. This is totally optional, but the more computers you need to work with the more useful it will become.

The Gateway option is used in corporate environments that have setup Remote Desktop Gateway servers. Since this article is geared toward home users, it shouldn’t affect you. If you are in a corporate environment and need to remote in, your friendly neighborhood system administrator will be able to tell you if you need a gateway, and if so what do you need to enter here.

The other options are pretty straight forward, so let’s click on the Display tab.

Display Options

Here you have some choices on how the remote machine is displayed on your Mac. One notable one is “Use all monitors“. If your Mac has multiple monitors connected to it, you may want to have the remote computer displayed on all of them. To do so, check this box. If you do some of the other options become disabled.

Alternatively, you may want the remote computer only on one monitor so you can still access your Apple computer on the other monitors. Leaving this unchecked allows this.

If you don’t select Use all monitors, you then have the choice to start the remote session in full screen, or show it in a window.

Next up are quality settings, such as the color depth or optimizing for Retina displays. Note that the higher settings you pick, the more bandwidth and processing power it will take.

In my selection, shown above, I chose to use all monitors at a high quality. Make your own selections then click on the Devices & Audio tab.

Devices & Audio Options

This tab controls what gets shared between the host computer, your Mac, and the remote computer (typically a Windows computer).

If, for example, you started a video playing on your remote computer, the “Play sound” option controls where you hear the audio. The default, On this computer simply means the Mac running Microsoft Remote Desktop.

I generally go with the default options, shown here, then go to the Folders tab.

Folder Options

Using the folders tab, you gain the ability to transfer files between your Mac and the computer you are remote controlling.

Start by checking the “Redirect folders” option. Then in the lower left click the + button. In the dialog that pops up, select one of the folders on your Mac. After you’ve connected to your remote computer, this will show up as a folder in your remote computer. Here’s what it looks like on Windows, after you have remoted in.

You’ll see the name of the folder you picked, in this example the Documents folder, the text on my, then the name of your Mac, in this case represented by <my mac>.

From here you can double click to open the Mac’s folder in File Explorer, and begin copying files back and forth. Do note there is a “Read Only” checkbox in the Add PC dialog’s folder options. If you check it, on the Windows computer you connect to will be able to read and copy files from the Mac, but will not be able to copy files to the Mac.

Using redirect folders is optional, and only needed if you wish to move files between the two computers. To be honest, I seldom use this option as I’m a heavy user of Microsoft OneDrive.

If I need something, I simply save it into my OneDrive on the remote computer, then I can open it in my OneDrive folder on my Mac, and vice versa. If you aren’t a user of OneDrive or a similar service then this will be a useful tool for you, should you need to share files.

OK, you’re all done, just click the Add button. This computer will now be added to your Microsoft Remote Desktop window.

Connect To a Remote PC

You can connect by simply double clicking on the block with the computer’s name (in this example represented by <name>).

Note the two icons in the upper right of the computer box. The pencil icon can be used to edit the settings we just saw. The trashcan can be used to remove this computer from your remote desktop application.

When you double click on the computer, you may be shown a message “You are connecting to the RDP host <name>. The certificate couldn’t be verified back to a root certificate. Your connection may not be secure. Do you want to continue?

If you are connecting to your own computer, that you trust, likely on your home network, then you can click the Continue button. In a future post we’ll show you how to resolve this so it will skip this dialog.

Once you have connected, you’ll see the remote computer, probably full screen (unless you changed the property back in the Display options).

Exiting a Remote Desktop Session

I will say, it’s not at all intuitive how to switch back to your Apple macOS desktop, or how to exit a remote desktop session once you are in it. Since I’ve shown you how to get into a remote desktop session, I should take a moment and show you how to get out of it.

To switch back to your macOS machine, simply use the CTRL key, plus the left arrow to swap to the previous desktop. Using CTRL plus right arrow will go back to the Remote Desktop session.

If you are using the virtual desktops feature in macOS, you can use CTRL and the left or right arrows to move past the remote desktop session to other macOS virtual desktops, then go back to the remote desktop.

To exit a remote desktop session, while you are looking at your remote computer simply drag your cursor to the very top of the screen and let it sit there a few seconds.

The Apple menu bar will pop up. You can then use the Window menu, and click Close. Alternatively you can click the Red X button in the Remote Desktop window to close the session.

Also note it’s possible to connect to multiple computers at the same time. You can use either the CTRL and left/right arrow to swap between them, or in the Window menu pick a different remote desktop to connect to.

Network Connectivity

Please note that both the Apple Mac and the computer you are remoting to must be on the same network. Typically this will be your home network, or perhaps a work network.

By default, Remote Desktop won’t work if, for example, you go to a coffee shop with your Mac and your Windows computer is still at home.

It is possible to work around this by setting up a VPN connection back to your home network. Setting that up, however, is beyond the scope of this already long blog post.


In this post, you saw how to install and configure Microsoft Remote Desktop on Apple’s macOS and connect to a Windows Computer. The screen captures were from macOS Big Sur and Windows 10, but I’ve also tested it with Catalina and Mojave.

Moving A File in Apple macOS

Move File Here

I’ve been using Windows since version 2, before that MSDOS all the way back to the earliest version. Thus working in the Microsoft world is very comfortable to me. My earliest exposure to Microsoft was with GWBASIC running on a Radio Shack (Tandy) TRS-80 Model 1.

I’ve been regularly using various distros of Linux for at least five years, perhaps longer, before that I used various UNIX or UNIX based systems. One of the earliest was CP/M on my Commdore 128, or later AmigaOS.

macOS is relatively new to me, I bought my first Mac about 3 years ago. The macOS GUI is very different in terms of commands from Windows or Linux. There are many things that aren’t intuitive to someone coming from another platform. Even though they may seem easy to an experienced Apple user, they took me some time to figure out. I thought I’d spend a few blog post helping out others who are experienced computer users, but relatively new to macOS.

One that befuddled me at first was very simple, moving a file to a different folder. Turns out it’s fairly simple when you know how.

First, open Finder and go to the file you want to move. Right click and pick Copy.

Now go to the folder you want to move the file to. If you right click, you’ll see the Paste option you may have seen before.

Now here comes the secret. Press and hold the OPTION key. When you do, the menu will update.

While the OPTION key is being held down, the Paste option changes to Move Item Here. Click on it and the file will be moved.

As I stated before, this may seem normal to a long time Apple user, but having menus change by holding a key isn’t something normally done in Windows or most Linux distros. As a new macOS user, it never occurred to me to hold down the OPTION key.

Using the OPTION key can unlock all kinds of new menu options, as you will see in upcoming posts.

Note this technique works in Big Sur, Catalina, as well the last several versions of macOS before that.

Getting Started with PowerShell Core on Linux and macOS

My newest course, Getting Started with PowerShell Core on Linux and macOS, is now live on Pluralsight! This course is my eighteenth in a long line of Pluralsight courses.

I begin the course explaining the difference between PowerShell for Windows (version 5.1) and the all-new PowerShell Core (version 6.2 was used for this course), which works not only on Windows but on Linux and macOS as well. I then show how to install PowerShell Core, along with a few other key components such as Visual Studio Code, on both Linux and macOS.

Not familiar with PowerShell? No problem! I quickly cover the basics of PowerShell including cmdlets, the use of the pipeline, how to write functions, and how to put those functions in reusable scripts.

As if that weren’t enough, I show how to do some “cool things” with PowerShell Core, including working with Docker containers, SQL Server, and Azure.

For the course, I primarily used Ubuntu 19.04 and macOS Mojave. The code was also tested on Ubuntu 18.04 LTS and 18.10, as well as macOS High Sierra. In addition, I tested the Linux installs on a variety of distributions including CentOS, Manjaro, and more. The samples include markdown files with information on how to install on these other distributions.

All of the samples are included in the downloadable components of the course on Pluralsight. New with this course I have the samples also available on my GitHub site. As I move into the future the GitHub codebase will be updated with new samples and information.

Also included in the samples are several markdown files that have additional information not included in the course, such as setting VSCode on Windows to use PowerShell Core instead of Windows PowerShell 5.1 as the default terminal.

While you are up on my GitHub site be sure to check out the full list of repositories, I have a lot of examples on it, including some from previous courses such as my recent Reporting Services course. (For a full list of my courses just check out the About ArcaneCode page on this site.)

Note the sample file on Pluralsight will remain static, so if someone watches the course their samples will reflect what is in the course. For the latest updated samples see the GitHub site referenced above.

What? You don’t have a Pluralsight subscription yet? Well, no worries dear reader, just email me, free @ and I can send you a code good for 30 days with which you can watch all 18 of my courses, plus anyone else’s course at Pluralsight.

iTunes Won’t Recognize iPad/iPhone after upgrade on Windows 10

I recently installed iTunes on Windows 10; after the installation it would no longer recognize my iPad Pros (either one of them). The iPad would ask if I wanted to grant access to photos, etc., but iTunes itself would never show the iPad as being connected. Prior to the upgrade I had no problems connecting.

I found the solution at: .

First, unplug an i-devices you have hooked up. Then, navigate to:

 %ProgramFiles%\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\Drivers

Find either usbaapl64.inf or usbaapl.inf. Right click on it, and pick Install

Reboot your computer, then give it another try. If it doesn’t work, the link above has a few other suggestions you can try, but this worked for me.

Hopefully this will help someone else with similar issues (or act as a reminder to me in the future Winking smile   ).